Filters & Pumps
Internal, external and hang-on filters, air pumps and circulation pumps for clean, oxygenated water.
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The filter is the aquarium’s life-support system. Its job is not just to keep the water clear but to house the beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia from fish waste into nitrite and then into far less harmful nitrate. Filter choice therefore shapes the long-term health of the whole tank.
Choosing the right flow rate
As a rule of thumb, the filter should turn over 4–6 times the tank volume per hour. A 100-litre aquarium, for example, suits a filter rated at 400–600 l/h. Messy fish such as goldfish call for the top of that range, while species that dislike strong current, such as bettas, are better served by adjustable or sponge filters.
- Internal filter: affordable and simple for tanks up to around 100 litres.
- Hang-on-back filter: takes up no space inside the tank and is easy to service.
- External (canister) filter: high capacity and quiet running for tanks over 100 litres and planted set-ups.
- Sponge filter with air pump: safe for fry and shrimp tanks.
Never rinse filter media under the tap; chlorine kills the beneficial bacteria. Squeeze sponges gently in tank water removed during a water change, and never replace all the media at once.
Open and clean the filter when the motor sounds different or the flow drops noticeably, which in most tanks is about once a month. Brushing out the impeller and hoses now and then also extends the life of the motor.
Common questions about Filters & Pumps
Can I switch the filter off at night?
No. When the filter stops, the beneficial bacteria inside run out of oxygen and start to die. Run it 24/7.
Do I need an air pump?
Not if the filter agitates the surface well, but extra aeration helps in crowded or warm tanks and during medication.
When should I replace the filter sponge?
Only when it starts falling apart; otherwise just rinse it in tank water. If you must replace it, change half at a time.